조가영 Ga Young Cho , 염명훈 Myung Hun Yeom , 박성일 Seong Il Park , 조준철 Jun Cheol Cho , 유선혜 Sun Hye Yu , 최윤정 Yoon Jung Choi , 김종일 Jong Il Kim

DOI:

Abstract

The aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of cosmetic products containing concentrated ginseng using novel methods based on Traditional Korean medicine (TKM). In TKM, inspection of facial skin was an important method to diagnose symptoms and body condition of patients. Doctors in oriental medicine examined a patient as observing symptoms on the face and skin related to inner organs. This was called “mang-jin. In this study, eleven female, who have been using the cosmetic products containing concentrated ginseng for the last 5 years, and eleven healthy controls, who have never used the same product, were recruited. Three doctors in oriental medicine evaluated 17 inspection factors on facial skin. And 7 non-invasive skin bioengineering factors were assessed by various instruments at the same time. In results, 7 factors of the inspection were better in using the product than in controls. And sebum, roughness, pigmentation and wrinkle depth were significantly lower in using the product than in controls. So, this results propose that the cosmetic product containing concentrated ginseng has a good anti-aging effect on skin. And it is suggested that the novel evaluation method combined, Traditional Korean medicine and modern bioengineering technique, has to be developed for holistic concept of Hanbang cosmetics.

Key Words

concentrated ginseng renewing cream, skin bioengineering, inspection, red ginseng, human skin

고현주 Hyun Ju Ko , 김경범 Gyoung Bum Kim , 이동환 Dong Hwan Lee , 이근수 Geun Soo Lee , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

Skin dermal fibroblast is the major collagen-producing cell type in human skin. As aging process continues in human skin, collagen production is reduced and fragmentation is increased, which is initiated by matrix metalloproteinase- 1 (MMP-1). This imbalance of collagen homeostasis impairs the structure and function of dermal collagenous extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby promoting skin aging. Cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1), a member of the CCN family, negatively regulates collagen homeostasis in primary human skin dermal fibroblast cells. It is known in aging fibroblast cells that elevated CCN1 expression substantially reduces type Ⅰ procollagen and concurrently increases MMP-1, which initiates fibrillar collagen degradation. And proliferation rate of aging fibroblast cells is reduced compared to the pre-aging fibroblast cells. In this study, we confirmed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased the expression levels of MMP-1 and decreased the production of type I procollagen. Our results also showed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased in the expression of CCN1 and decreased in the proliferation rate. Hydrolyzed Ulva pertusa extracts are the materials to improve photo-aging by reducing the expression of MMP-1 that was increased by ultraviolet and by promoting the synthesis of new collagen from fibroblast cells. In this study, we also investigated the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract to see whether it inhibits CCN1 protein expression in the senescence fibroblasts. Results showed that the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract inhibited the expression of MMP-1 and increased the production of type I procollagen in the aging skin fibroblast cells cultured. In addition, the proteins that regulate collagen homeostasis CCN1 expression were greatly reduced. The hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract increased the proliferation rate of the aging fibroblast cells. These results suggest that replicative senescent fibroblast cells may be used in the study of cosmetic ingredients as a model of the natural aging. In conclusion, the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract can be used in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic material to improve the natural aging skin care as well as photo- aging.

Key Words

cysteine-rich protein 61, CCN1, homeostasis, hydrolyzed Ulva pertusa, replivative senescent dermal fibroblast, natural aging

현무열 Moo Yeol Hyun , 석장미 Jang Mi Suk , 정상욱 Sang Wook Jung , 박진오 Jin Oh Park , 김보현 Bo Hyeon Kim , 장진동 Jin Dong Jang , 조기정 Jung Gi Joe , 여인권 In Kwon Yeo , 김범준 Beom Joon Kim , 김명남 Myeung Nam Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Recently, hair growth effect of red ginseng was proved by many in vitro experiments, but there are not enough clinical studies. In the present study, we evaluated the efficacy of Rg3 hair shampoo (Somang Co., Korea) containing Rg3 0.003% extracted from ginseng radix on preventing hair loss and promoting hair growth by clinical study. 42 volunteers were enrolled present study and devided into two groups; one group used the Rg3 hair shampoo and another group used shampoo not containg Rg3. Before and after 8 and 16 weeks use of Rg3 hair shampoo, we measured the density, thickness and growth rate of hair. At the same time, an assessment of improvement of hair loss and subjective satisfaction of patients were conducted by clinicians and patients. Results obtained from the group used Rg3 hair shampoo showed statistically significant improvement in the density, thickness and growth rate of hair. Results from the clinicians, patients and subjective satisfaction of patients also showed better responses for the group used Rg3 hair shampoo. In conclusion, Rg3 hair shampoo is an effective product on preventing hair loss and promoting hair growth.

Key Words

ginseng radix, Rg3 hair shampoo, hair loss

권순식 Soon Sik Kwon , 전소하 So Ha Jeon , 전지민 Ji Min Jeon , 천종우 Jong Woo Cheon , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, antioxidative effects of the extracts of different species and flowering periods of Inula britannica were investigated. According to the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity of the extracts, The I. britannica var. chinensis flower extract (500 μg/mL) was measured in a 79.89% free radical scavenging activity, but the flower extracts of similar species (I. britannica var. linariaefolia Regel, I. britannica var. ramosa, I. salicina var. asiatica) did not show any effect on the free radical scavenging activity. The effects of the free radical scavenging activity of I. britannica var. chinensis flower extracts were exhibited in the order of full bloom (93.68%), bud (43.28%), and fallen blossom (14.11%). Next, we established optimum condition of extract solvent, temperature, extraction time. The extract from ethanol at 60 ℃ showed the most free radical scavenging activity among other conditions and extraction time not relevant in free radical scavenging activity. The protective effects of the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower on the photohemolysis of human erythrocytes by using rose bengal were increased in a concentration-dependent manner (5 ∼ 50 μg/mL). In particular, the extract in 50 μg/mL concentration exhibited better protective activity (τ₅₀ = 116.1 min) than (+)-α-tocopherol (τ₅₀ = 73.44 min), which is a known lipophilic antioxidant. Principle component of I. britannica var. chinensis flower was identified as quercetin of flavonoids by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). These results indicate that the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and ¹O₂, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. It is concluded that the antioxidative effects of the extract of I. britannica var. chinensis flower could be applicable to functional cosmetics.

Key Words

Inula britannica flower, anti-oxidant, cellular protective effect

서용창 Yong Chang Seo , 노라환 Ra Hwan No , 권희석 Hee-seok Kwon , 이현용 Hyeon Yong Lee

DOI:

Abstract

This study was to improve cosmetical activity of thiamine di-lauryl sulfate (TDS) by encapsulation of nanoparticle with lecithin. Results showed that most of the nanoparticles containing the TDS were well formed in round shape with below 150 ∼ 200 nm diameter as well as they were fairly stable in various pH ranges by measuring zeta potentials. The nanoparticles of TDS resulted in 85% cell viability of human normal fibroblast cells (CCD-986sk) when added at the highest concentration (1.0 mg/mL). The nanoparticles of Acer mono sap showed highest free radical scavengering effect as 88.1% in adding sample (1.0 mg/mL), compared to TDS solution of non-encapsulation (81.6%). The nanoparticles of TDS reduced the expression of MMP-1 on UV-irradiated CCD-986sk cells down to as 41.4%. The TDS solution and nanoparticles showed significant anti-microbial activities agaionst the salmonella typhimurium and listeria monocytogenes at 5 and 6 days as compared with control. Anti-microbial activities of TDS nanoparticles were similar to positive control. These results indicated that TDS nanoparticles may be a source for functional cosmetic agents capable of improving cosmetical activity such as antioxidant, whitening, and anti-wrinkling effects and can be further developed as natural preservative in cosmetics.

Key Words

Thiamine Di-lauryl Sulfate, cosmetical activity, Nano-encapsulation, anti-microbial activities

이선화 Sun Hwa Lee , 이정임 Jung Im Lee , 김유리 Yoo-ri Kim , 이범천 Bum Chun Lee , 강민지 Min Ji Kang , 최광성 Kwang Seong Choi , 문태기 Tae Kee Moon

DOI:

Abstract

It has been reported that certain ingredients added to cosmetics clog the skin pores and this can cause outbreaks of comedones which are the primary sign of acne leading to inflammatory acne. This research aims to establish objective evaluation criteria for non-comedogenic cosmetics suitable for acne prone skin. The research has been carried out to examine non-comedogenic test performed in foreign clinical institutions and to establish the evaluation method for detecting comedones outbreaks through repetitive closed back-patch test, Also, usability evaluation on face skin is performed additionally to the same subjects. The analysis of the comedones collected through repetitive closed back-patch test confirmed that the test products, moisturizer and sunscreen product, did not cause comedones. These results had no correlation with the analysis result of the comedones collected from face skin or visual evaluation of acne by Global Acne Grading System (GAGS) in face usability test. Additionally, Oil red O staining was performed on the collected comedones specimen for easy distinction of comedones from hair follicle in image analysis. The analysis result of stained specimen showed higher precision than that of non-stained specimen. This study established a new version of non-comedogenic test for cosmetics, whose objectivity and reliability were improved by inclusion of comedones staining step.

Key Words

acne, acne cosmetics, noncomedogenic, microcomedone, follicular biopsy

김동명 Dong Myung Kim , 홍원기 Weon Ki Hong , 공수성 Soo Sung Kong , 이언엽 Un Yep Lee

DOI:

Abstract

Oil in water nanoemulsion of astaxanthin was prepared by high pressure homogenization. The emulsifying conditions including emulsifier type, concentration and astaxanthin concentration were optimized. Stability of nanoemulsion was measured using zetasizer, freeze-fracture scanning electron microscope (FF-SEM), particle analyzer and colorimeter. The mean diameter of the dispersed particles containing astaxanthin ranged from 160 to 190 nm. Size distribution was unimodal and extended from 40 to 200 nm. The nanoemulsion prepared by glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate had smaller particle size and narrow size distribution. Stable incorporation of astaxanthin in nanoemulsion was performed and checked using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), freeze-fracture scanning electron microscope (FF-SEM). Physical stability of nanoemulsion was not significantly changed during storage at both light and thermal condition for a month with zeta potential value of -41 mV meaning stable colloid.

Key Words

nanoemulsion, astaxanthin, high pressure homogenation, zeta potential

석장미 Jang Mi Suk , 박신영 Shin Young Park , 최미라 Mi Ra Choi , 안송이 Song Yi An , 김범준 Beom Joon Kim , 박진오 O Jin Park , 정상욱 Sang Wook Jung

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, water content, sebum content, and transepidermal water content were investigated to provide basic data for the future cosmetics industry as comparing the skin characteristics of different ages. Water content of cheek area, sebum content of nose area, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of cheek and forearm of trial subjects (total 638 people of both male and female) were measured. Data were analyzed using Statistical Package for the Social Sciences program (version 19.00; SPSS Inc., Chicago, IL, USA). Water content, sebum content, and TEWL of skin were measured as mean ± standard deviation. As a result, water content of cheek from female was higher than male and the water content increased with the older ages. However, sebum content of nose from male was higher than female and the sebum content increased with the younger ages. TEWL of cheek from female was higher than male, but TEWL of forearm from male was higher than female. Therefore, these results can be used as basic data in the development of future cosmetics for different ages and genders.

Key Words

skin, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, sebum

최채만 Chae Man Choi , 홍미선 Mi Sun Hong , 이윤정 Yun Jung Lee , 김화순 Hwa Soon Kim , 김현정 Hyun Jung Kim , 김정헌 Jung Hun Kim , 채영주 Young Zoo Chae

DOI:

Abstract

This study was aimed to provide the fundamental data about oxidized hair color products. For this reason, we collected 125 oxidized hair color products, which were distributed in domestic market from January to October, 2012, and measured the heavy metal concentrations of lead, arsenic, cadmium, chromium, manganese, nickel, copper in the samples. Results were compared by domestic, foreign, henna, type and color. The average metal concentrations were as follows; 0.211 μg/g for lead, 0.008 μg/g for cadmium, 0.051 μg/g for arsenic, 0.954 μg/g for chromium, 6.250 μg/g for manganese, 0.591 μg/g for nickel and 0.544 μg/g for copper. In case of lead and arsenic, the concentrations were much less than the regulated amount (20 μg/g and 10 μg/g, respectively) suggested by MFDS (Ministry of Food and Drug Safety). In henna (p < 0.05), the concentrations were significantly higher than those of other domestic and foreign oxidized hair color products as follows; 1.264 μg/g for lead, 0.267 μg/g for arsenic, 0.025 μg/g for cadmium, 4.055 μg/g for chromium, 72.044 μg/g for manganese, 3.076 μg/g for nickel and 4.640 μg/g for copper. Statistically, it showed that the heavy metal concentrations were quite different for the different types of hair color products. The cream and liquid type products had the highest average concentration in chromium (0.708 μg/g, 0.478 μg/g, respectively). On the other hand, powder type products showed the highest concentration in manganese (60.041 μg/g). In addition, the concentrations of heavy metals and the color of products are not quite correlated. It was shown that average concentrations of lead and chromium were higher for yellow, chromium for red and pink, manganese for brown and black, and nickel for green.

Key Words

oxidized hair coloring products, henna products, heavy metals, inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrometer, ICP-OES

석장미 Jang Mi Suk , 박신영 Shin Young Park , 최미라 Mi Ra Choi , 안송이 Song Yi An , 김인수 In Soo Kim , 김범준 Beom Joon Kim , 박진오 O Jin Park , 정상욱 Sang Wook Jung

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, ultraviolet protection factor (Sun Protection Factor, SPF) was investigated to provide basic data for subject safety and research of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation test in the future. Trial subjects (395 people) of skin type Ⅰ, Ⅱ, and Ⅲ were evaluated according to skin type standard table. After measuring the skin color using a colorimeter, ITA (Individual Typology Angle) value was calculated. Subjects with 28 and above ITA value were positioned comfortably to be UV irradiated for 60 s and erythema was evaluated 24 hours after application. MED (Minimal Erythema Dose) was investigated where the minimal amount of erythema existed among UVB irradiated area. Statistical analysis was investigated using Statistical Package the Social Sciences program. As a result, the darker skin color results in the higher MED value since the higher skin type number results increased MED value and female has higher MED value than male since female has darker skin type than male. There was no relation between MED difference by ages in all different ages. However, it is hard to draw a conclusion as above since the number of subjects were not sufficient to support statistical significance for MED values by different ages. However, MED values by skin types obtained through this study can be used as a standard when MED value is expected to evaluate efficacy of sunscreen product and as basic data for further safety of clinical researches.

Key Words

UV radiation, minimal erythemal dose, sun protection factor, sunscreen